Contents

1 Getting Started

o Warm-up exercises

2 Understanding the serve

o Service

o Service return

3 Chopper's Dream

4 Practice drills

5 Preparing for matches

o Analysing your opponent

6 Preparations

o Physical 1 & 2

o Psychological

o Annual

7 Theory of Tactics

o Drills to take against defensive players

o Drills for offensive players (when serving to an offensive player)

o " " " " (when returning services)

o Tactics against defensive players

o Tactics of Doubles

8 Sheets for strategic notation

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¦Getting started :-                                      ¦

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This handbook is intended as a guide to achieve a high level of play.

Positioned to the extreme left of the five rectangles you will find a smaller rectangle, to be used for placing your opponent's name.

(1) Simply select the bottom side of each rectangle by placing an 'x' where you would be positioned on contact with the ball.

(2) Identify either (FH) or (BH) used during play of each ball by both players.

Place an arrow in the direction where the ball will go.

Place and 'x' where your opponent has position him/herself and state what method was used in returning the ball.

              x(bh) x(fh)

-+ +-----+ +-----+ +-----+

¦N¦ ¦  ¦o   ¦ ¦ o ¦    ¦ ¦    ¦  o ¦

¦A¦ ¦  ¦   ¦ ¦  ¦   ¦ ¦   ¦   ¦  

¦M¦ ¦   ¦    ¦ ¦  ¦   ¦ ¦   ¦   ¦

¦E¦ ¦o  ¦   ¦ ¦ o ¦   ¦ ¦        o ¦ 

+-++-----++-----+ +------+

       x(fh)        x(bh)               x(fh)

(3) Show what action you did from start of serve and what your opponent did in receiving each ball or vice versa.

(4) Blank sheets can be found at the back of this handbook.

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¦Abbreviation Chart ¦

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B=block BH=backhand BB=backhand block BC=backhand chop

BS=backhand sidespin BT=backhand topspin CA=counter attack

FH=forehand FB=forehand block FS=forehand sidespin

FT=forehand topspin FC=forehand chop H=hit L=loop P=push

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¦Warm-up Exercises¦

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First remember to warm up before play (at least 15 minutes). Do stretching exercises (arm/leg/neck) bring a skipping rope with you and make good use of it, last of all concentrate very hard on your first rally. On the table, warm-up by hitting the ball to each other's forehand then backhand. Just before starting the match-during warm-up, stop the play and ask to see your opponent's racket, pay attention to the types of rubbers and blade:Is the opponent's racket for power play or control[?]

STANCE

0 Feet approximately 2 to 3 feet appart,knees slightly bent,crouch

FOOTWORK

Generally one step in any direction will allow you to reach the ball.

STROKE

Use short stokes when close to the table

Use full strokes when you are far from the table

Before you hit the ball, think about making a circular motion with your racket.

PRACTICE

Place the ball to the opponents's backhand, then forehand and then down the centre line

Concentrate on the placement, hit the ball where the opponent is not

Develop short and long serves with variation on side-spin, chop, no-spin and top-spin serves

Remember to toss the ball when serving-serve properly, serve honestly, serve smart

Return of serve- consider this:

1. Your stance

2: Footwork

3: What stroke to use-push,chop,roll,loop,side-spin,no spin or kill

4: Placement-normally you have two choices

(a) Where the opponent is not

(b) Directly at the opponent

When to attack

1 When it is your turn to serve

2 When you are comfortable (ready)

3 What the ball is high

4 Take the play away-drop shot then kill:rally then position kill

-stay focused-always concentrate on winning the point you are playing.Don't think about the points you don't have yet.

Offensive players must learn to EXPLOIT the opponent's play

Defensive players must learn to CONTAIN the opponent's play

Practice against lobs-learn to consistantly hit position

Don't practice with the same person all the time.Each player has something to offer! that could help you both:help each other.Get to know each player on your team

Play with feelings -----

--- The warm-up note are complements of Mr Richard LeePack

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¦Service ¦

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Learn at least 8 different serves and try to disguise most of them by using the same motion.

Top Spin

The aim of this service is to send the ball fast through the air and low over the net, with variation in it's speed and direction. When it lands on the receiver's court, it will have a sinking bounce.

The Ready position: The most suitable position for a right hander to stand, is a little to the left of the centerline, approximately 40-50 cm from the endline. It is assumed here that the server is a righthander. For a left hander, rights should be replaced by lefts. Your right foot and right shoulder should be to the back with the knees bent slightly, with your racket tilted and it's tip pointed to a right forward direction. The ball should be tossed from the free hand about 5-15 cm, with a slightly bent playing arm swung back behind an imaginary extention of the right side of the body.

The aim of this serve is to prevent your opponent from making a strong attack by sending the ball in such a manner as it bounces on the receiver's court 30-35 cm away from the net.

The ready position: The server stands on the left side of the table. Behind are the right foot and right shoulder. The right foot points sideways while the left one points forward. The knees should be bent a little as this is very important for the execution of the serve. The racket should be placed behind the free hand. It should be held so that it's surface would make about a 150-160 degree angle to the surface of the table. The turning of the racket downward and bringing the wrist back a little, play the decisive part in the execution of the good service, for that position of the racket makes sure of an effective touch on the lower rear part of the ball. You should throw the ball up at least 10 inches and sometimes straight up to vary spins and swing down straight on contact with the ball.

Any backspin service should bounce at least three or more times on the table!

You should start with your right hand from your left side and carry it forward 45 degrees while using your back hand rubber with your hand pointing downwards.

This serve is more effective, when after contact with the ball you are able to move your hand quickly either to the left or right as if to seemingly produce spin.

You should hit directly behind the ball, with a sudden forward motion and with your racket at least 45-50 degrees. It is most effective when served mostly down the line to your opponent's forehand.

Much is hardly known of this serve as it is very effective and because it is hard to return it short!

The ready position: Bend the knees a little, place the left foot and the left shoulder in front. The right foot should point a little to sideways while the left foot points in a forward direction. The grip should be relaxed. As the ball is tossed to a short distance, bend both knees deep and turn the racket to the right. From that position the forearm is swung upward, touching the rear part of the ball with the upper part of the racket. The racket moves a little to the left and the service should be delivered with a loose grip and a thin touch at the impact. The movement of the wrist and forearm should be very short and quick. Usually the racket makes a half circle movement, but it can also be done with a smaller movement of the racket.

When this serve is done properly, the second bounce should be near the net on the receiver's court. It has a hop, and for that reason it is difficult to make an effective return with a short chop or drop shot. It will be more effective if both top/side spin services and the half circle services are used alternately in the game.

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¦Service Return ¦

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In the real world, service return is very vital, if your return is weak then your opponent would have a distinct advantage in winning more points than you. The rule of thumb is this ... try winning at least three of your serves and two of your opponents and the match will be in your favour!

Remember that to make a good service return, try to estimate what your opponent is serving and make your racket action in the opposite direction of where his/her hand finishes!

Or better still use this MOTTO wherever the hand starts that where the ball shall be placed ], so if your opponent starts with their arm from one direction then you should place the ball in the direction their hand started from!

Because this ball is travelling upwards then you should change your racket angle downwards to bring the ball down.

This is when your opponent attempts to hit directly behind the ball in a downward motion causing the ball to appear as if it is coming forward in a strange way similar to a wave on the water.

Topspin is best to return this kind of serve.

Or sometimes you can push it. (try lifting the ball straight up).

Because the ball is travelling towards you and spinning in a clockwise basis, for option one, you should push forward in a similar as your opponent (counter clockwise) and a little forward while aiming towards his forehand side.

Option two is to turn around from your backhand side and loop with your forehand while keeping a low trajectory!

This is a very deceptive serve, as the ball is being touched somewhere between the side and top of the ball.

You should push this ball in a kind of slant position with your racket hand going forward as if a plane is just about to land but has not steadied itself as yet. If you can flick then you can use a short flick to return the ball.

Because the ball is appearing to be travelling in a downward motion you should push this ball upwards or you can try a loop or topspin!

Always return a fast serve to your opponent's other side so that you can give yourself ample time to react .... If the service is PIPS then you should just touch the ball with your racket slightly open face (Don't try to force it as it would go into the net). Most likely your opponent would not attack the next ball if it comes back slower than expected and you would get your chance to attack.

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¦ The Chopper's Dream!! ¦

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Choppers must hit ..... TO WIN!!!

This section will place some emphasis on Choppers and chopping.

All choppers should have a good serve so that they can attack suddenly!

They should place themselves in a position not to shaken unless they want to and should use some sort of weird (pimple) rubber to substantiate their claim.

Surprise is the element and it is advised that if you play with one smooth side and one pimple side not to rally with your opponent with your pimple rubber before a serious game is about to begin.

Learning how to chop with no spin/spin makes the chopper's day as the ball will constantly do strange things.

Short chop

Used near to the table or if receiving hard loop.

Long chop

Used far from the table to import more spin to opponent's ball.

Tactics (1)

Practice some shadow swings with your opponent before your match so as to get your timing equivalent to theirs. Remember it is not the equipment that you use but how you master it! Try not to send the ball directly to where the opponent is waiting as he will hit it back no matter how fast you send it! On the other hand sending a ball slow as it seem to the least expected spot will most likely not be returned. If you do not try to do more than persevere when shaken back and forth, you are allowing your opponent to set the pace. A chopper should go on the offense by applying heavy spin to his chop so that the opponent's return will pop up high enough to attack.

When chopping try to place the ball either close to the end of the table if your opponent stands too close, or to the middle if they are uneasy in returning balls.

Mix some soft/floating balls in between rallies so as to confuse your opponent and force them to change their strategy constantly.

Rallying

One good way to keep the ball in play is this:

1 When near the table, (1 metre or less) use a short stroke.

2 For middle distance (1 to 3 metres) use medium stroke.

3 For longer distances (3 metres or more) use the full stroke.

(Loosen your blade while near the table if the attack is fast to contain the attack)

Remember to adjust your timing also.

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¦The Block ¦

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It is always known that the best defense is a good offense and though most players are known for their arsenal of weapons to win a point, most rely on being able to stay in the point long enough to counter-attack. Therefore improving your blocking game will allow more rallies, better shot selection and results.

Most players confuse blocking with backhand attack and you should separate the two. Blocking keeps the rally going, while backhand attack finishes the point. Always continue blocking until you feel confortable with your consistency and then start to move your placements around the table.

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¦       ¦ o    ¦ ¦o     ¦       ¦

¦         o      ¦ ¦      ¦        ¦

¦       ¦       ¦ ¦      ¦        ¦

¦        ¦       ¦ ¦               ¦

¦  o     ¦       ¦ ¦o               ¦

¦ o      ¦      ¦ ¦o     ¦       ¦

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Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure 4

(Crosscourt) (Down the line) (Mid section) (Alternate)

Figure 1 is the basic angle for returning a loop because it permits you the largest area (10.3 ft of distance to be exact).

Figure 2 is great for blocking against left handed players as well as penholders.

Figure 3 is vital against slow or tall players.

Figure 4 is a good variation as well, forcing your opponent to be on the move always.

Advance Drills:

(1) Have your practice partner loop ramdomly all over the table while you continue to block only to one area of the table. Try to do your best on the loops that are delivered to the middle of the table. These are the hardest to deal with because of the changeover between backhand and forehand. The best suggestion is, if you are close to the middle of table and in a jam ...use your back-hand. If you are close to the table and the ball is sent to the far side (RH) and in the same predicament, use you forehand.

(2) Another variation is to have your practice partner loop one to your forehand and one to your backhand.

Conclusion: Blocking can be a player's secret weapon. There is no better feeling than knowing you can outlast your opponent in any rally. In today's game of ultra-spinny loops and powerful smashes, blocking is most likely the best shot to turn the point around in your favour.

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¦Analysing your opponent ¦

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Learn as much as posible before hand any information about your opponent ie:- their weakness, strengths, services and service returns. Find out what kind of rubber is used (is it regular rubber or pips?). Do they attack fast? Are they careful? Or do they just swing???!!.

If they are Attackers find ways to counter attact. Ie:- (quick blocks) either to forehand or backhand or down the middle. Serve short most of the time and use quick fast serves down the forehand side with a quick return to the backhand side.

If they are Defensive find out if they attack sometimes. If so, is it both sides or just one side only? Are they good defending at both wings, far or near from the table? Do they flip during play? Are they using smooth rubber on one side and pimple on the other? Sometimes you have to mix your play (you hit when you should loop and vice versa); you should push or drop shot instead if hitting!

Try moving the opponent from side to side during rallies. Use the in and out method to rattle their cages. As they are often quite crafty, use fast serves either to their backhand or forehand. Find out which of the two gives you the advantage.

Always wait on the ball and hit just before it decends from it's peak; (flat hitting is usually good for dealing with chops especially when the ball is coming at a low trajectory!)

If you serve too much spin to a chopper, the ball could be returned with heavy back spin; if you serve with no spin, the ball could return with no spin and therefore can be hit by an open face bat!

POINTS TO REMEMBER

The points you have to be careful of when you adopt the strategy of drives and drop shots are as follows:

(1) Drop Shots. When your opponent answers your strong drive, his pimple rubber chop will be with a very high spin. Therefore you must take up the most adequate position to deal with it, then place the ball to where he cannot make an attack. The knack is to lift the ball a little when you strike it immediately after its bounce.

(2) Drive attacks. Following your drop shot, you can make an attack with a drive. What you should do first is to move to where you can produce the most powerful shot. Upon striking the ball, you ought to catch it at the top of it's bounce and sent it to where he is rather clumsy in dealing with it, then his next ball will be an easy one, to which you can adopt another drop shot easily. It would be better if you could mix strong and weak balls in your drives.

By hitting your consecutive returns to his pimple rubber side, his attention will be accumulated to one side, at which time you can sudddenly send a powerful drive to his smooth rubber side. This strategy will produce an additional effect, namely your opponent can hardly foresee your placements and as a result, he will not be able to make counter-attacks. Also it may be a good idea to change your placement of the ball more often with drop shots and smashes so as to puzzle him.

In the beginning you may be forced to commit many errors, but soon you will be able to deal with it.

If they are Allround players, then you should pressure specific areas routinely. Deal with this situation by constantly placing the ball once in one direction and twice in the other or vice versa and sometimes with various ball speed.

Playing tall people

Playing tall people requires a lot of ingenuity as they can cover practically the whole table without moving. Your best strategy is to send a series of balls to the middle of the table to both sides of the centre white line, and then send a ball wide to the forehand side! If it is returned then send the ball wide to their backhand side. Once you have them on the run then you can keep sending the ball wide to both corners of the table.

If they do hit the ball suddenly while on the run, then you should block the ball to the middle of the table where it is least expected.

KEY POINTS to note

1 Always play your best even when you are behind.

2 Always plan ahead.

3 Never lose your cool! Remain calm always!But play like a house on fire!

4 Play as if you know everything and can deal with any situation!

5 Take notes (keep a notebook) ... for the future is yet young.

6 Concentrate from your very first point.

7 Do not swear! or Cheat. Be humble!

8 Set yourself a goal! Try to get 300 points in your first year and by your third year try to get at least 1500 rating points!

9 Watch players who have a style you like or would like to adopt!

10 Do stetching exercises before you play (at least 15 Mins) and prepare yourself for your upcoming match.

I may not be good but each time I'll play my best for though I'm only rated 250 I'll beat any player from 250 - 500 and within one year I'll improve, afterwards I'll play people rated 1000 and up and I'll win; for I'll get better and of course they'll get worse as there can be only one CHAMPION!

1 Think ahead for one day the future will unfold to you.

2 To fail to prepare is to prepare to fail.

3 The athlete who deems participation as a part-time experience is destined to be a L O S E R !!!

4 Practice does not make perfect but PERFECT practices make perfect.

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¦Paterning your play! ¦

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Always have some thoughout plan to play any opponent and reconized certain positions when balls are being returned to you. Study your angles effectively and decisively. Try to attack as much as possible !!

The idea of always practicing to correct faults are a must, so have your coach make an analysis of your play. If you lose a game make a note of what your opponent did best and practice to WIN against it!

Rubber types that most people play with.

o Shriver (2.0) Very consistant rubber but not too spinny.

o Mark 1V (2.0) Very spinny rubber with less control.

o Donic (2.0) Has the effects of consistency as well as control.

o Tsp (2.0) Used little in North America but active in Europe.

o Banda (2.0) Used mostly by the Swedish team.

o Feint (1.0) Used by good choppers.

o Friendship (2.0) Used mostly by top chinese players.

Other noted rubbers

chinese brand (pips out)

RITC 799 Medium speed rubber which enables you to create spin

RITC 755 A perfect rubber for defense play

DONIC YANG(K2) Ideal for a controlled backhand with pimpled effect.

DONIC YANG(L1) Extremely aggressive with relatively good control. For a tricky pimpled effect when attacking.

PF4-C7 Produces loop drive with spin/chops without spin.

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TIBHAR Dang Sticky rubber with chinese sponge, has good ball control.

Vari Spin Has multiple variations and good reliability.

Speedy Spin Fast attack with good speed/spin.

Storm For the active allround game

DONIC VARIO(S) Softer sponge, better control and a little slower.

" " (H) Excellent spin, very fast with good control

JUIC 999 (att) Greater spin, strong drives, versatile services

" (hard) More power, speed combined with greater control.

STIGA MENDO Has a tremendous spin effect

YASAKA MARK 1V Attacking rubber for aggressive play

1 Size/thickness

If your racket is very thick, then it means that the ball will rebound much faster.

2 Weight

Most bats are 90 or 95 grams therefore if your bat is too heavy use a much thinner rubber, eg 2.0 and if still heavier use 1.5.

3 Rubber

Make sure you use rubber you can handle (2.5) is very fast with less control while 2.0 is standard practice.

4 Penhold

Use this type if you find you're capable of returning balls with only one side of the bat.

5 Handles

The following are the racket handles, anatomic, conic, flared, and straight.

If you find that by removing your rubbers constantly, some of the wood fibres keep coming off, then varnishing your blade would be a good idea so that whenever you "reglue", the wood fibres would not come off. Usually coating your bat with just one thin coat on each side would do the trick. However if you use two coats on each side you will find the blade to be faster.

It is advisable that you let the bat dry for two full days after varnishing before attempting to attach the rubbers. Note that after two years you would find most of the varnish would have been absorbed into the wood, and after one more coating you may not have to do it again.

THEORY OF TACTICS

Tactics against Defenders

Given below are drills to take against offensive against defensive players. Making offensive shots against a defensive player is not like making offensive shots against an attacker. You must manuever more to take offensive. You will be able to do that better if you practice them regularly. drills given here are some of such examples. You may need to make different drills best suited to your own play. Well planned preparation and practice are the key to victory in this case also.

Drill 1. A sends a long/short forehand sidespin service to the backhand side of B (1), who returns it with a backhand chop to the backhand side (B returns all shots to the backhand  with backhand chops). A uses 7-10 forehand topspins diagonally, then a fast forehand topspin. If B returns a high ball while handling topspins(2-10), then A must use a powerful topspin or smash to end the rally.

The length of the drill: 10-15-20 minutes.

Drill 2: A sends a short forehand sidespin service to the middle of the table (1). b returns it with a backhand forehand topspin to the backhand of A. A uses a fast forehand topspin to the middle of the table(2), and B returns it to the backhand side. Again A uses a fast forehand topspin to the forehand side(3).

The aim is to score a point by two offensive shots.

The length of drill: 10-15 minutes.

Drill 3: A sends a short forehand sidespin service to the back hand side(1). B returns it with a backhand chop  to the back hand side. In this drill B returns all shots with chop to the backhand side of A. A returns nnext 7-8 chops to the backhand side of B. a is waiting for a high return: when A gets a high return A uses a powerful offensive shot.

When A does not get a high return or a ball to be attacked, then A sends a fast backhand sidespin chop to the forehand side of B(9), B returns it to the middle of the table. A uses a powerful forehand topspin or hit to the backhand side(10).

The length of the drill 10-15-20 minutes.

Drill 4:A sneds a shot backhand sidespin service to the forehand side(1), which is returned with a forehand chop to hte backhand side of A. A uses 2 or 3 backhand chops in a row to the bachhand side(2,3), then two slow forehand topspins to the backhand side.(4,5).B returns them with backhand chops to the backhand side. A uses a drop shot to the forehand side(6).When it is returned, a uses a powerful forehand topspin to the backhand side.

The length of the drill 10-15-20 minutes.

Drill 5:A places a long topspin sidespin forehand service to the backhand side(1). B returns it with a backhand chop to the backhand side. a uses a fast forehand topspin crosscourt(2). B returns it with backhand crosscourt. the return is 40-80 cm high. A uses a forehand smash to the backhand side. When it is returned, again a forehand smash to the forehand side(4).The patern can be changed from time to time. for example, 2-3 forehand smashes to the backhand and the fourth smash to the forehand side. Instead of the fourth smash, a drop shot can be used also...The aim of the drill is to smash high balls.

The length of the drill 10-15 minutes

DRILLS FOR OFFENSIVE PLAYERS

When serving to an Offensive player

Drill 1:From the backhand side, A (your player) gives a short forehand (or sidespin)service to the middle of the table(1).B (opponent) returns it with a heavy chop to the backhand side of A. B is staying close to the table. A uses a series of forehand topspin to the backhand side of B. The first topspin rather slow and safe(2), the second a little faster(3), the third more power(4). When it comes back to the backhand side, hit a powerful forehand topspin to the B's forehand side(5). When B returns the third topspin to the B's backhand(6). If B goes back a little from thew table, then hit every shot, topspin or other kinds, to his backhand side. If A hits to the frehand side of B, B may use re-topspin and take the offensive away from A. The intention of this dril is to score by directly attacking the B's backhand side.

Drill 2:A serves a short backhans sidespin service to the forehand side of B(1). B chops it back on the table to the backhand side. A sends a slow forehand topspin crosscourt(2). B returns it to forehand side. A hit a fast forehand topspin to either middle or forehand side(3). If B returns it to the backhand side, A moves to his backhand side and hit a fast forehand topspin. The intention is to send shots to the B's backhand side or middle thus avoiding B's use of forehand strokes

Drill 3:A serves 2-3 short forehand backspin services  and 2 backhand sidespin services alternately. The services are placed on forehand side and backhand side randomly(l,l). B returns them with short backhand and forehand chops to the backhand side. A uses 3 forehand topspins to the backhand side of B(2) and the fourth topspin to the forehand side of B(3). If B returns the fourth topspin, e.g to thr forehand side, A sends a forehand topspin to the backhand of B(4). The aim of this drill is to move the player to his backhand side and to score on this forehand side.

Drill 4: A gives two short backhand sidespin services to the forehand side of B(1), then the the third  service- along backhand sidespin service- to the backhand side(l), with a quick motion. B returns the services with short chop to the forehand side and backhand aalternately. When returned to the backhand side, procedures of Drill 3 folow. When returned to the forehand, A moves to his forehand side and sends the first forehand topspin to thr backhand side of B(2), B returns it to thr backhand side, and A uses backhand countercrosscourt(3). B counters this with backhand countercross court. A moves to the backhand and use either fast forehand topspin or forehand kill(4). The aim of this drill is to surprise the opponent with the third service aand kills the ball with forehand.

When returning Serve

Drill 1

Drill 2:

Drill 3: