THE CULTURE OF THE FLORIST'S GLOXINIA (SINNINGIA SPECIOSA HYBRID) by Nancy Robitaille How many times have you seen a florist’s gloxinia (sinningia) in a show?   Rarely, probably.   They are large, impressive plants with spectacular blooms that will take your breath away yet few people who collect African violets grow these plants. THEIR BEGINNINGS: The discovery of the Gloxinia was recorded in 1785 and named in honor of  P.B. Gloxin from Strassburg, Germany.  Probably due to its size the plant has not appreciated immense popularity neither at that time nor in our own.  This plant was introduced into England and was named Gloxinia speciosa. Originally the plant was discovered in Brazil and the first was called G. perennis, later called Gloxinia speciosa.  The species plant did not greatly resemble the hybrids we see today in florist's shops or nursery shelves.  The species plant has flowers which are slipper-shaped and nod or face the leaves.  Todays larger varieties look up so you can see down into their throats. By 1825, botanists discovered that this plant had been misnamed.  It was not a Gloxinia but actually a gesneriad that belonged to the genus Sinningia.  In spite of this the plant is still popularly called “Gloxinia” or “Florist's Gloxinia.” The true gloxinia is Gloxinia perennis which is grown from a knotty rootstock and is similar in construction to Achimenes.  G. perennis has bell-shaped flowers, the common name is "Canterbury Bells". The true gloxinia does not produce tubers. CULTURE OF GLOXINIAS: You may start your gloxinia collection by purchasing a tuber or the entire plant. Tubers of most hybrids are dark brown, rounded on one side and concave on the other. January or February are good months to start tubers.  February plantings of a tuber will assure you of a large head of bloom by late May or early June.  Planning for shows is not easy.  Tubers may be started at any time, however. For show plants, only one of the plantlets that develop should be allowed to continue to grow.  Other growths may be taken off and planted.  Plants should be placed in the center of the fluorescent bulb so that symmetry can be at its best. SOIL FOR GLOXINIAS: Soil mix was recommended in my research but I will not repeat these recipes since they are outdated.  Growers of today use the same soil-less mix that we use for African violets. A medium sized tuber should be potted in a four or a five inch pot.  If  the tuber is really large, try a six or even a seven inch pot.  Fill the pot with soil until it is three-quarters full.  Press the tuber into this and twist slightly.  Add more soil until the tuber is covered by three-quarters.  Set the pot in warm water and allow the soil to moisten. Tubers can be started at any time but grow more slowly in winter. LIGHT: Gloxinias need lots of light. in order to become symmetrical.  Turn pots frequently.  Plants grown in light gardens do very little resting.  When the bloom period is over, they may be cut back to the lowest two leaves and kept in active growth.  New leaves will appear in a few days and the plant is on its way to performing again. Flowers will stay crisp and attractive for about ten days to two weeks.  They may last longer if a slightly shadier spot is found when flowering starts.  A well-developed plant will have four to seven blossoms through most of a three month's season.  Slipper-type flowers are more free flowering and may have twelve to fifteen or more blossoms open at the same time. TEMPERATURE AND VENTILATION: Gloxinias are tropical flowers from steamy jungles of Brazil so they will enjoy lots of humidity.  Temperatures should range from 72 to 78 degrees F. with cooler temperatures at night of five to ten degrees. WATERING: Watering your plants properly insures success more than any other single factor.  Tubers have a large accumulation of moisture and this allows for less watering than for African violets.  Water from the top or from the bottom but try not to water directly on top of the tuber.  Use warm water.  Water less during the winter months.  Warm water will not harm leaves.  In fact some growers take their plants to the kitchen sink every week or so for a shower with warm water.  Keep wet plants away from direct sunlight. SUMMERING GLOXINIAS: You may safely summer your gloxinias outdoors.  The pots may be plunged into the ground under a bushy shrub or other overhanging plant growth.  When the plants bloom, bring them indoors to enjoy.  Be very careful about insects from outdoors including those that might crawl into the bottom holes or flying insects. When an older plant seems limp and leaves turn brown cut off all the green growth and keep soil on the dry side.  Growth will resume within about a month's time. Page Two page design by Alana